Dermascope – Magazine
Skin Care Tips for Men
by Lia Schorr
Healthy skin that is glowing, smooth and above all very sexy is one of the dividends of proper skin care.
While women were born believing that it was all right to make themselves beautiful, only recently has it become socially acceptable and even fashionable for men to openly indulge themselves in the cleansing and therapeutic benefits of professional skin care treatments.
Specializing in all types of men's complexion problems, Lia Schorr is one of the most renowned New York City-based skin care experts. She has been in the business fifteen years; during seven of which she ran Georgette Klinger's men's salon. “I have a unique approach to men's skin care by understanding their needs,” Ms. Schorr explains, “I allow them to be themselves but still educate them about proper skin care."
At Ms. Schorr's own Madison Avenue salon her loyal male clientele, which account for 60% of her business, range in age from nine to eighty years old and include such famous faces as Paul Newman, Dustin Hoffman, Gene Simmons of Kiss, and Peter Allen.
Ms. Schorr not only personally pampers and treats each face but also takes the time to educate her clients on proper at home care. Her 1-1/2 hour facial is a skin analysis and deep pore cleansing that lubricates and rejuvenates the skin in the process. This professional treatment offers another bonus: a soothing relaxation period for the man under pressure. "Come," she urges, “because you deserve it. A facial is good for enriching the soul" Ms. Schorr recommends that men have a professional facial at least four times a year and follow a simple at-home regime: daily cleansing followed by a moisturizer and eye cream, and apply. ing a mask preferably twice a week.
About 16,000 hairs covers a man's face and over fifty-five years, approximately 27-1/2 feet of hair will be shaved. Shaving is, in fact, the main difference between men's and women's skin. While it does remove dead cells, it also makes this area tougher and more sensitive. Proper shaving techniques will reduce irritation, but first it is important to understand what is happening with the skin itself.
The skin constitutes 10% of our weight and consists of two layers, the epidermis and the dermis. The former has several layers and fosters skin appendages such as hair follicles and various glands. The healthy formation of these appendages depends upon the bottom layer or the dermis, which takes up 90-95% of our skin. It is slightly thicker in men than women and is 2 to 3 mm thick as compared to the epidermis which is .1 mm thick. The dermis is the only blood supply, providing the necessary nutrients, to the epidermis via capillaries and a supporting network of collagen and elastin. As the skin's appearance relies on these elements, keeping the supply strong increases youthful longevity. Unfortunately, our resources decline about 1% per year. This natural aging process and a variety of other factors-seasonal changes, exposure to the sun, pollution, indoor heating and air conditioning, diet, insufficient sleep, smoking, alcohol, drugs, and stress-affect the skin.
Electric shaver versus razor depends on individual preference: an electric shaver clips the hairs off, while a razor slices. But both can harm the face if not used properly on a carefully prepared face. To get a good shave, the hair fibers must be softened and kept soft, otherwise skin friction can cause extensive razor burn and skin cuts. Seventy-five percent of the shaving market believes aerosol shaving products are the best. Ms. Schorr, however, contends that creams and gel preparations are better because they are worked into the face with the gentle stimulation of the fingers.
MS SCHORR'S SIMPLE STEPS TOWARDS THE PERFECT SHAVE:
- Make sure you sterilize equipment.
- Clean your face with a cleansing lotion.
- Splash warm water on your face to open pores and soften beard or shave after a shower or bath.
- Apply a gentle wash-off cream to further soften beard Remove.
- Apply shaving foam, cream or gel and wait two minutes before shaving.
- Hair density and thickness increases down toward the chin; therefore, shaving should be divided into four levels: first, shave the upper cheeks; then work the lower right and left sides of your face and upper lip; then slowly stroke the chin concluding with the neck.
- Rinse face with lukewarm water and gently dab dry.
- Apply a gentle aftershave cream or lotion, followed by a moisturizer, to protect the skin.
OTHER IMPORTANT SHAVING TIPS TO REMEMBER:
- When using an electric shaver: the drier, the better.
- For less irritation and fewer ingrown hiars, don't stroke any area more than twice.
- Don't use a dull blade.
- Keep electric shaver clean with the special small brush.
- Try to shave only once a day. If you must shave a second time, use only an electric shaver.
- Alternating between an electric shaver and a razor helps reduce skin irritation.
- If your skin is particularly sensitive or irritated, try growing a beard for at least a month, then resume shaving.
- For cut, put a dab of mud mask on the area, which tightens the pores and helps blood clot naturally.
- For ingrown hairs, sterilize both tweezers and affected area, then pull out gently. If they can't be easily removed at home, consult an electrologist.
- Don't use talc on your face; it clogs the pores.
- After-shave cologne does not help kill bacteria. Applying it directly on a freshly shaven face can have a burning, drying effect and can also cause increased perspiration. If you do use after-shave cologne, apply a small amount behind ears.
- Do not rub skin roughly with towels or tissues. DAB GENTLY ONLY!
- Perspiration, which is highly alkaline, can also irritate the skin and provide a warm breeding area for bacteria. Sweat glands are simple tubular glands and are classed as apocrine glands, whose prime function is body odor, and eccrine glands. The ration of eccrine glands to hair follicles on the face is 3:1. It is of utmost importance to watch caloric intake, since the higher the concentration of sodium the more you perspire. And men perspire more than women. For best results, Ms. Schorr recommends that men cleanse their face three times a day to prevent perspiration from sinking into the skin and clogging the pores.
WHEN EXERCISING MS' SCHORR SUGGESTS THESE SIMPLE STEPS:
- Clense face before - exercising.
- Don't apply a moisturizer. Allow the skin to breathe and take in oxygen.
- Immediately afterwards, cleanse away perspiration; apply a moisturizer.
- Drink plenty of water.
society that thinks young, tanning has become part of the American way. But chronic sun exposure, not time, is the skin's chief enemy. While the sun taken in moderate doses supplies the body with Vitamin D, it also promotes skin cancer, causes skin discoloration, robs the body of the all-important Vitamin B complex, and accelerates the age-ing process. Frequent application of a good sunscreen when sunning, participating in warm-weather activities, or skiiing will help protect against excessive exposure. Ms. Schorr believes the "more and more men who want to enjoy that healthy, suntanned glow year round without the damaging side effects-will begin wearing light-textured bronzers and cover-ups."
FOR PUFFY TIRED EYES, she suggests warm tea bags. Some other tips: apply a light moisturizer before a sauna or steam bath to protect the skin from excessive heat and help prevent broken capillaries, and avoid talking on the phone with your chin resting on the germ laden receiver.
Ms. Schorr offers a complete line of men's hypo-allergenic skin care products made of natural desert ingredients, mostly from the Dead Sea. She also has some effective home-made skin care recipes for men.
CUCUMBER CLEANISING LOTION:
- blend together 1/2 cup strained cucumbers and a 1/4 cup milk.
- apply to face with cotton.
- Let is absorb into the skin. Don't rinse off. (For best results, no cleansing lotion should be washed off.)
- use daily, morning and evening.
- ideal for all skin types.
STRAWBERRY AFTER-SHAVE MASK:
- mash 2 strawberries.
- mix mashed strawberries together with 1 tsp. sour cream.
- apply to face and leave on 10 minutes.
- use twice a week.
- a refreshing, calming mask ideal for all skin types.
- mix 2 oz. of witch hazel extract with 2 oz. of either lemon oil or peppermint oil.
- apply to face after each shave; then use a moisturizer.
- ideal for all skin types.